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AMERICAN ASSOCIATION 
FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF SCIENCK 

Appendix to the ^'Proceedings," August 1872'. 



SCIENTIFIC EXCURSION 



ACROSS THE 



T^fg ®[F Q®M/^ 



FROM 



BUBUQUE TO SIOUX CITY AND SPRINGVALE. 



BY WILLIAM W. WHEILDON. 




CONCORD, MASS. 
Prepared at the request of the party. 

1873. 



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APPENDIX 



Scientific Excursion across the State of Iowa. By William 
W. Wh^ildon. 

At the conclusion of the sessions of the Association, on Monday, 
August 26th, and after the return of the members from the social 
and festive visit to the city of MaGregor, on the Upper Missis- 
sippi River, on Tuesday, — which combined river and raikoad 
travel with extraordinary scientific interest, — a more extensive 
excursion was arranged by the Illinois Central Railroad Company? 
fi'om Dubuque to Sioux City and return. Such members of the 
Association as desired to join in the excursion were kindly fur- 
nished with the necessary tickets for the purpose, and the " Sec- 
tion " — as we felt that we might call it — left Dubuque on 
Wednesday morning, the 28th. The Section comprised about 
forty in number, and included many prominent and active mem- 
bers of the Association, and several ladies who had been attending 
its meeting. There were five or six State geologists, a number of 
botanists, and others, all interested in the study of natural history 
and the pursuits of science. 

The excursion proposed was directly across the State of Iowa, 
from the Mississippi River on the east, to the big Sioux and Mis- 
souri Rivers on the west, a distance of three hundred and twenty- 
seven miles ; and many inducements were presented, calculated to 
make the excursion both interesting and profitable to the party, 
and promotive in some degree of the cause of science. The meet- 
ing of the Association, just concluded, is the first which it has held 
west of the Mississippi River, — a region embracing by far the 
largest portion of our country ; and the rich valley lying between 
the two great continental rivers, before they become united into one 
stream hardly less than that larger region lying beyond the Mis- 



Z APPENDIX. 

souri, was almost wholly unknown, so far as personal observation 
goes, to the members of the Association. The recent history of 
this region — and none other is open to us, unless it be to some 
extent geologically — is to be found scattered through many vol- 
umes of more or less value, and in the public documents of the 
government, which are generally accessible to those who desire to 
be particularly acquainted with it. The city in which the Asso- 
ciation held its sessions is less than a hundred years old, having 
been settled by the French Canadians in 1786, — then barely enti- 
tled to be called an outpost of civilization ; and now it numbers a 
population of more than twenty thousand persons, possessing, as 
indicative of the taste and intelligence of the people, a museum of 
natural history and kindred sciences, and a public library. Of 
course, these simple statements carry with them the evidence of a 
general advancement in wealth and refinement, — all of which, 
without needless display of any kind, combined to render this 
meeting of the Association of the most gratifying character. 
The attentions bestowed upon the Association and the kindness 
shown to its members, as well as the large attendance upon its 
sessions, we feel justified in saying, are regarded as manifesting 
a high appreciation of its purposes and a respect for its mem- 
bers, alike comphmentary to them and not less honorable to the 
city. 

In this excursion the Section was favored with the company of 
Dr. C. A. White, of the Iowa State University, and State Geol- 
ogist;* and in order to follow to some extent the rules of the Asso- 
ciation, as applied to its working sections. Dr. White was elected 
chairman ; and to him was intrusted not only the general direction 
of the party, but, we may say, its edification also. Familiar as he 
is with the geography and the geology of the State, its rivers, 
lakes, mines, quarries, and prairies, it appeared to be a pleasure 
to him to give any information in regard to these which might 
suggest itself to him or be desired by the party ; so that, in point 
of fact, Dr. White lectured to his attentive and interested audience 
during the entire journey of two days across the State, and, as for 
that matter, nearly all the way back, until we parted with him at 
Fort Dodge. 

* Dr. White's elaborate work on the Geology of the State has been published 
intwo large and elegant volumes, illustrated with maps, diagrams, and draw- 
ings ; and is a very valuable addition to tlae works of its character and class. 



APPENDIX. 3 

With the usual occurrences and incidents of travel over this new 
and peculiar country, so destitute of those features which in New 
England characterize the landscape, — hills and vales, and forests 
and rocks, — our stopping-place for the night was at the city of 
Fort Dodge, on the Des Moines Kiver, 192 miles from Dubuque. 
We were at this place about a thousand feet above the level of the 
sea, and 444 feet above the Mississii^pi River at Keokuk. 

Fort Dodge and its neighboi'hood compose an extremely inter- 
esting region, both historically and scientifically. After the trans- 
fer of the vast country west of the Mississippi River, included 
in the Louisiana purchase in 1803, to the United States, one of 
the military posts for the protection of the surveying parties was 
established at this point on the Des Moines River, in 1849. The 
barracks used by the troops, when the region was in possession of 
the Indians, are still standing within the streets of the present city ; 
and one of the veterans of that period who served under General 
Mason (Major Williams), and was at one time acting military 
governor over an almost boundless territory, still resides in the 
city. 

The Section were received by the citizens of Fort Dodge, in a 
most generous and hospitable manner, into their hearts and homes. 
In the evening there was a reception at the residence of Mrs. 
Swain, a member of the Association, at which an opportunity of 
meeting with some of the citizens of the place was aiforded and 
enjoyed. 

The next morning, Thursday, 29th, was devoted to a scientific 
exploration of the neighborhood, — mine and quarry, forest and 
river. Carriages were provided by the citizens for all the members 
of the Section, and some of them accompanied the party in their 
explorations. Among the places visited were the limestone quar- 
ries and kilns, the coal mines, the river, and Lizard Creek; and, 
chiefest of all, the famous gyjisum quarries, known hereabouts as 
the birthplace of that audacious imposition, the " Cardiff Giant." 
From among the hills and groves, which undulate and beautify the 
river banks, we passed over a few miles of elevated prairie ground, 
and entered the canyon, for it is almost that, in which the gypsum 
beds are visible in the bluffs upon either side of it. Through this 
gorge, or narrow valley, runs the Soldier Creek, in its summer glory, 
babbling or foaming or spreading itself thinly over a smooth sandy 
surface ; and we had to cross it (of course fording it) no less than 
six times in a hundred rods. It has been running through this 



4 APPENDIX. 

valley, impetuous in its littleness though boisterous at other sea- 
sons, for ages, and may undoubtedly be said to have " worked its 
passage " through the soft gypsum deposits. The stream itself was 
lovely ; and, while its banks Avere green and beautiful, its compan- 
ionship was pleasant and inspiring. Stopping in full view, though 
far above us, of the position whence the Cardiif giant was blocked 
out, Dr. White interested the Section in a description of the gyp- 
sum field, its extent, and the quality and the uses of the article. 
It has been used to some extent in Fort Dodge as a building ma- 
terial, and arrangements are in progress to furnish a supply of plas- 
ter of Paris fi-om it for the purposes of agriculture and the arts. It 
is not probable that it will be much used for statuary hereafter. 
The gypsum beds of the Des Moines River and its tributaries are 
said to be the largest and most valuable in the country, and the 
only beds of any economical value in this or the adjoining States. 
Its peculiarity is its remarkable purity and freedom from grit, so 
that it is hewn with axes and hatchets, sawed with a common 
wood-saw, and blasting-holes, when necessaiy, are made with a 
common carpenter's auger ; yet as a building material, though it 
may be cut and defaced with a penknife, it retains its beauty of col- 
oring and its durability nearly as well as marble. It may be sawed 
into slabs or blocks of any size ; and, when calcined and ground as 
plaster of Paris, it is applicable to the highest purposes of art, as 
well as to ordinary agriculture. 

Returning from the gypsum quarries, we crossed the Des Moines 
River, and from the bluffs of its western shore obtained some fine 
views of the city, the river, and the surrounding country. Our 
visit proved to be highly satisfactory, socially and scientifically, 
not only to the members of the Section, but not less so to the citi- 
zens of Fort Dodge, and will be pleasantly remembered by all. 

At 3.40 P.M., we left our friends at Fort Dodge, and in a car 
kindly provided for our party, proceeded on our way to Sioux City. 
Our route for the whole distance of one hundred and thirty-five 
miles was over the open and apparently boundless prairie, unbroken 
by an elevation and almost unrelieved by tree or shrub, save the 
rank weeds of the prairie. The weather was warm and pleasant, 
and particularly favorable for the most extended views over the 
prairie, which, especially towards the north, seemed like the open 
ocean ; and visions of the broad swell of the sea scarcely required an 
effort of the imagination. For a distance of more than fifty miles, 
the track of the railroad was as straight as an arrow ; and, looking 



APPENDIX. 5 

back from the rear of the train, a very slight grade, hardly more 
than the curvature of the earth, we might imagine, could be 
observed. The prairie was not entix-ely new to the party, except- 
ing in its apparent boundlessness ; but it still seemed strange to 
those in whose minds " the idea of a wilderness was indissolubly 
connected with that of a forest." Beyond the Ohio River, " the 
traveller, as he wanders successively over Indiana, Illinois, Mis- 
souri, and the vast wilderness lying beyond, is astonished at the 
immensity of the great plain, the verdure, the beauty, of its wide- 
spread meadows." In our case nothing could be more interesting 
than the broad prairie views, opening from all the windows of the 
car, during a ride of more than a hundred miles, which may 
scarcely be said to be diversified with a few trees, and a few houses, 
a river or two, a lake or two, and for most of the time the visible 
horizon bounding the landscape. Many times as we have seen 
them, lived upon them, studied them, we never look upon these 
boundless prairies without wonder at their vast extent, then* mar- 
vellous fertility, their beautiful green covering, brilliant with flow- 
ers and instinct with life in so many forms. 

Notwithstanding the apparently level country over which we 
had travelled for two days, we had risen to an altitude of more 
than fifteen hundred feet above the sea, and had as imj^erceptibly 
dropped down again to two-thirds of that elevation. The summit 
level in our journey was passed near Storm Lake, — a spot made 
memorable with blood in Indian history, and whose peculiarity 
is that its waters flow from opposite ends into difierent streams. 

After a very agreeable and interesting journey during the after- 
noon, our Section reached its destination and western limit, at 
10.15 P.M., unexpectedly, as we were surprised to learn, to the 
citizens. We had passed since leaving Dubuque, in the three 
hundred and twenty- seven miles over this comparatively new 
countiy, more than forty stations, each of which of course repre- 
sents the town, and frequently constitutes all there is of a settle- 
ment. It seems that we were expected at four o'clock in the 
afternoon, at which hour a public reception had been arranged, 
carriages provided for the use of the party, and there would also 
have been a gathering in the evening ; all of which, with what- 
ever benefits might have occurred, were lost to us and to them 
by our delay. We found ample and elegant accommodations at 
the Hubbard House, — a large and princely hotel, — and received 
the visits of some of the prominent citizens during the evening. 



6 APPENDIX. 

Our chairman, Dr. White, in consultation with the citizens, made 
the necessary arrangements for the movements of the party for the 
following day. 

Friday, August 30. — This morning after breakfast, the Section 
assembled in the drawing-rooms prepared for the excursions of the 
day. Carriages were placed at their disposal, and Dr. White 
organized the companies and arranged the excursions. Parties 
sallied out in different directions around the city, and the whole 
neighborhood was visited. The Big Sioux River was crossed into 
the territory of Dakota, and the Missouri River, at a point below, 
into Nebraska; and short rides were taken in each, chiefly of 
interest to the botanists of the party. The celebrated bluff named 
after the first settler of the city, Brughier, was visited, and from 
this point was seen the junction of the Sioux River with the Mis- 
souri. The geologists had ample and enjoyable opportunities of 
visiting the cretaceous formations of this region, and numerous 
specimens were obtained by them. Quite a number of specimens 
of small fishes were also obtained from the river by our ichthyolo- 
gists, and not a few moths and bugs. Floyd's River was crossed, 
and the bluff three miles below the city, where Floyd was buried 
at the time of Lewis and Clarke's expedition, was seen, but not 
visited. Some of the highest eminences in the State are to be 
found a few miles north of this city, on the Sioux River, 1500 feet 
above the level of the sea; and from these the views are pictu- 
resque and beautiful, including innumerable bluffs in all directions, 
groves of trces, the com-ses of the two rivers, and the great level 
valley lying between them. 

The region around Sioux City was found to be very interesting, 
historically, geologically, and geographically ; and much pleasure 
and profound scientific interest were enjoyed by the party, espe- 
cially that portion of it which had the privilege of listening to the 
instructive remarks and explanations of Dr. White. It is hardly 
too much to say that the bluffs, rivers, forests, quarries, and even 
the swamps in the neighborhood of the city, were visited by the 
geologists, botanists, ichthyologists, and bug-hunters of the party ; 
and wherever there was fine scenery to be found, upon the bluffs 
and along the rivers, there some of our aesthetic members were sure 
to be seen. 

In the evening, after the excursions of the day, the Section re- 
assembled in the drawing-rooms of the Hubbard House, compared 
notes of the day's exploits, and received the calls of many of the 



APPENDIX. 7 

citizens with their ladies. At an early hour, the company was 
called to oi'der by the chairman, Dr. White, and committees 
appointed to prepare resolutions, expressive of the sense of the 
company, for the invitation extended to them by the railroad com- 
pany and the attentions received from the citizens of Sioux City. 
Subsequently, Prof Perry, from the first named committee, reported 
the following : — 

Whereas, The Illinois Central Railroad Company has kindly 
favored such members of the American Association for the Ad- 
vancement of Science as wished to make an excursion westward 
with free tickets from Dubuque to Sioux City, and back again ; 
therefore, 

Resolved, That we tender our most hearty thanks to the said 
railroad company, and in particular to the General Superintendent 
and to G. N. Candee, Esq., for their kind and untiring efibrts to 
promote our comfort and pleasure during the excursion. 

Mr. W. W. Wheildon, from the second committee on the recep- 
tion and entertainment at Sioux City, reported the following reso- 
lutions, and all were unanimously adopted by the meeting an 
published in the local papers : — 

Resolved, That the thanks of the Section, individually and 
collectively, be presented to the citizens of Sioux City for the 
attention and kindness bestowed on the occasion of our visit to 
this city and its interesting vicinity ; and, further, 

Resolved, That, recognizing their generous conduct as an evi- 
dence of interest in the cause of science on the part of the citizens 
of Sioux City, it is especially grateful to us, and will be regarded 
as an encouragement in future efforts for the advancement of 
science in this and all sections of the country. 

After completing the business, the remainder of the evening was 
passed in very agreeable social intercourse with the citizens and 
ladies of the place, all of whom expressed their gratification at the 
visit of so large and respectable a body of scientists, and that the 
Association had honored the State by holding its first meeting 
west of the Mississippi within its limits. 



APPENDIX. 



The Return. 



Saturday, August 31. — Having accomplished, as fur as seemed 
practicable, the objects of the visit to Sioux City, this morning the 
members of the Section took the cars on their return. Passing 
again over the beautiful prairie, they reached Fort Dodge at noon, 
and were welcomed by their friends and invited to a dinner pro- 
vided by the ladies of the city. The repast was served at the Fort 
Dodge House, and a number of ladies and gentlemen belonging to 
the city were present. At the conclusion of the dinner a vote of 
thanks for the kindness and attentions received was adopted ; and 
much mutual good feeling was expressed at parting. 

Visit to Springvale. 

A number of our party, having accepted the invitation of Rev. 
S. H, Taft, President of the Board of Trustees of Humboldt Col- 
lege, at Springvale, tendered in behalf of the citizens, carnages 
were now in readiness to convey them to that place. Humboldt 
College is the latest educational institution of its class in the State, 
as Springvale is also one of its youngest municipalities. The town 
lies about sixteen miles north of Fort Dodge, and nearly at the 
point of junction of the east and west branches of the Des Moines 
River. The ride across the intervening country in the afternoon, 
quite in contrast with our extensive railroad journeyings, was a 
perfect pleasure. 

We were received at Springvale with warm hearts and every 
expression of welcome, in the homes of the people ; and in the 
evening thei*e was a public reception at " Russell Hall," with the 
somewhat remarkable addition, as we thought, of a musical band. 
We thought perhaps the influence of "the Jubilee" had been felt 
even in these remote settlements. The exercises of the evening 
consisted of an address of welcome by Rev. Mr. Taft and remarks 
by Dr. White, Prof Perry, Mr. Putnam, and Mr. Wheildon. The 
hall was filled to its utmost capacity, the people were very much 
interested, and the band furnished excellent music for the occasion. 
Later in the evening the band tendered a serenade to their visitors, 
and nothing was omitted to render the occasion 2)leasant and 
agi'eeable. 

By arrangement of the two religious societies in the town, Prof. 



APPENDIX. y 

Perry, on the following day and evening, delivered his two 
discourses on the Mosaic Creation and the Noachian Flood, in 
Russell Hall, to very crowded assemblies. They were particularly 
interesting and instructive, and gave great satisfaction. One of the 
clergymen armounced his intention of preaching upon the subjects 
presented to the consideration of the people by the scientists on 
the next Sabbath. 

On Monday, the scientists visited Humboldt College and other 
points of interest in the neighboi'hood ; and in the evening the 
people assembled again to hear a lecture by Mr. Putnam, of Salem, 
on Fishes, and this gentleman presented his subject in a popular 
and interesting manner, illustrating the discourse with living speci- 
mens taken from the river in the vicinity. 

On Tuesday, the party visited the ooUte quarries and lime kilns, 
the point of land in Dakota City where the two branches of the 
river form a junction, and the admirable grounds belonging to the 
college. In the evening a lecture was delivered by Mr, Wheildon, 
on the Origin of the Races of Men, supporting the Bible account of 
the creation of man, controverting the idea of numerous creations, 
and expressing some views adverse to the Darwinian speculations. 
As on the previous evenings, the hall was crowded, many of the 
auditors coming considerable distances. At the conclusion of his 
discourse, Mr. Wheildon read a vote of the scientists expressing 
their thanks for the kindness and hospitality received ; and the 
meeting passed a vote of thanks to the lecturer. 

Here, it may be said, the public proceedings of our party closed. 
Many of the members had already left Springvale, and on Wednes- 
day morning, September 4th, the remainder returned to Fort 
Dodge and took the cars for Dubuque ; and there the excursion 
ended, each day having been passed happily and pleasantly. We 
had crossed and re-crossed the State, had visited many localities of 
historical and geological interest, had seen the beauty of the sce- 
nery and the richness of the soil, and measured, as far as the eye 
could reach, the almost boundless and beautiful prairies. This 
State, and perhaps all the States east of the Rocky Mountains, 
which are drained by the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers and their 
tributaries, are of similar geological character, composed for the 
most part of stratified rocks and drift. The rocks are altogether 
of marine origin, and are filled with remains of shells, corals, &c., 
as the coal fields are with vegetable remains. Minerals of various 
kinds, especially galena in the neighborhood of Dubuque, are found 



10 APPENDIX. 

in different parts of the State, and more or less in all the prairie 
States, but of course not as in the mountainous regions farther 
west. Although the rocks must have been deposited in horizontal 
layers, they are rarely found anywhere in this condition, so that 
not only the coal deposits, but nearly all other formations, crop out 
at the surface or are exposed in the river valleys. The advantages 
afforded by these conditions are esiiecially fxvorable to geological 
observation and promotive of the progress of the science, as the 
relative position of these formations and the peculiar fossil remains 
which characterize them, accurately determined, are essential to 
the claims of geology as a science. American geology is already 
recognized abroad ; and the labors of American geologists, in their 
ample and open fields, have contributed, and are now contributing 
largely to the advancement of the science. 

The excursion of the Section, formed impromptu and almost 
without previous acquaintance among its members, and the 
attentions received at Fort Dodge, Sioux City, and Springvale, 
various and generous and inspiriting as these were, will be long 
remembered and cherished as among the pleasantest experiences 
of their lives. The whole excursion was enjoyed, not merely in its 
scientific pursuits, satisfactory as these were, but quite as much in 
its social activities and intercourse. These grew upon the party, 
both ladies and gentlemen, daily, and made the termination of our 
journeyings an undesired consummation. Of the same character, 
to some extent, were the friendships formed in the cities visited, 
where the kindnesses received seemed to teach us not. only that — 

" One touch of nature makes the whole world kin," 

but that we were of one country and one people. 

But to these words of pleasure, recreation, and friendship, — so 
fully realized by all the members of the party, — the word of sad- 
ness must be added. We felt that the social enjoyments of our 
party must terminate, that many of us might not meet again; but 
we did not dream, when we separated, that one who had taken so 
active a part in the doings of the Association and of the Section 
during the excursion, as Prof. J. E. Perry, — whom we all hoped 
to meet again, — would be removed from his sjihere of labor and 
usefulness, and called up higher, even before all our party had 
reached their homes. Although he did not appear to be as strong 
in health as we could have wished, he shrunk from no effort ; and 
we fear that the readiness with which he complied with the 



APPENDIX. 11 

wishes of others may have tasked his energies of mind and body 
too severely. 

Prof. Perry had interested all oar members in the learned and 
elaborate discourses delivered by him at Dubuque and repeated at 
Springvale, and we had enjoyed his conversation and companion- 
ship during the whole excursion. His quiet and gentlemanly bear- 
ing had attracted the observation and secured the respect of all 
the party, and we may truly say that none more sincerely than 
they mourn his early and sudden death. 

In concluding this narrative of the longest and, in some respects, 
most practical excursion yet made by the members of our Associa- 
tion, we may be permitted to express the opinion that, whether it 
shall ever be repeated in any other direction or not, much good in 
the cause of science and scientific observation cannot fail to result 
from this, in the new and comparatively unexplored region visited. 
The people everywhere manifested the most lively and gratifying 
interest in the subjects of scientific inquiry, as the whole commun- 
ity appeared to do at Dubuque, and left no means unemployed to 
assist the members of the Section in the pursuit of their peculiar 
studies. Not only was a spirit of hospitality and friendliness 
invoked in our aid, but, as in the city where our meeting had been 
held, a desire was manifested by many to continue the investiga- 
tions and observations initiated by their visitors, and follow in the 
paths of study in some small degree opened to their enlightened 
apprehension. " The pursuits of science," says Dr, Dick, " are 
fitted to yield a positive gratification to every human mind. It 
presents to view processes, combinations, metamorphoses, motions, 
and objects of various description calculated to arrest the attention 
and to astonish the mind far more than all the romances and tales 
of wonder that were ever invented by the human imagination. 
In order to make science advance with accelerated steps, and to 
multiply sources of mental enjoyment, we have only to set the ma- 
chinery of the human mind in motion, and to direct its movements 
to those objects which are congenial to its native dignity and its 
high distinction." 

In the true spirit of our Association, — the advancement of 
science, — we entered upon this excursion ; and those who have 
enjoyed its pleasures are encouraged in the belief that it has not 
failed to leave pleasant remembrances in its paths, and perchance 
sown some seed that may hereafter give evidence of the hopes that 
inspired it. 



AMERICAN ASSOCIATION 
FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF SCIENCE. 

Appendix to tlic "Proceedings," August 187"J. 



SCIENTIFIC EXCURSION 



ACROSS THE 



¥^T1 ©\F D®MiA 



FKo:\r 



DUBUQUE TO ;^IOUX CITY ANi) SPRIXiJVALK 



BY WH.IJAil W. ^Vll[;i!J)oN, 






CONCORD, MASS. 
Prepared at the rei|uest of tho party. 

1873. 



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